I created this for myself using a fabric I’ve always wanted to try, a Drago Super 160s Brown Prince of Wales Check. The suit is fully unlined besides for the sleeves. The Jacket is made with a half canvas construction. The fabric is very cool and breathable. Also on the shoulder construction we tried the Neapolitan way of tailoring. Called the “Spalla Camicia” which basically means shirt shoulder. There is little to no shoulder pads and the armhole is higher than usual. This makes movement while wearing the jacket a whole lot easier. Also because I have slopping shoulders this was the best way to get rid of shoulder dents. We also went for a very wide notch lapel, the reason being the wider lapel enhances ones chest while at the same time making the waist appear smaller. Another thing we did to the jacket that kept with this theme was the deep slanted pockets. We also used a thicker pocket flap to keep in line with the wide lapel.
The trousers were made high rise with inward pleats and thicker waistband. Again the reason for this was to hide the stomach as much as we could. We also added suspender buttons on the inside and a turn up at the bottom.
I learnt a few important details from my visit to factories in Naples. Firstly all the hand work, we tried to do as much hand finishing as we could. Secondly the lightness of the jacket was important. The idea was the jacket shouldn’t feel like a jacket. It shouldn’t feel structured and restricted. You should be able to move around, do daily things and work all with your jacket on and after wearing this about 4 times I think we’ve did well achieving versatility while wearing your jacket.
Suit: Drago Super 160’s – R18 000
Shirt: Italian Cotton – R2 000
Tie: O.S Man Roma Collection – R1 500
Square: Drakes – R1 500
Braces: Shibumi Firenze – R2 500
By Omar Osman